Precious Metal Silver Clay Locket


  • 16g PMC3 Clay Clay Cutters
  • Small amount PMC3 Slip Teflon Sheets
  • Bizzy Balm Resist Clay Roller
  • Rolling Strips: 2x1mm & 2×1.5mm thick Jar with Water
  • Steel Brush Paintbrush
  • Steel Burnisher Small Diamond Files
  • Sand Paper 600 grit Butane Torch & Firing Brick or Kiln
  • Craft Knife or Blade Tweezers
  • Small Bowl with Cold Water Small Bowl with Hot Water
  • Tumbler, Steel Shot &Burnishing Compound Silver Polishing Cloth
  • Liver of Sulfur Bottle of clear nail varnish


For the top half of the locket:

  • Step 1. Balm hands and tools that come into contact with PMC3 Clay.
  • Step 2. Remove PMC3 Clay from packet and condition by rolling in palms of hands.
  • Step 3. Using the 1.5mm clay rollers, roll out the clay and impress with a design.
  • Step 4. Cut out the shape desired for the locket. Put aside to dry. (Place excess clay under a baby wipe when not in use to prevent drying).
    When dry, sand sides smooth and drill hole for hanging on a chain or cord…
  • Step 5. When dry, drill a hole for hanging. Lightly draw your design on the plain surface of the piece and then, using a small paintbrush and the clear nail varnish, paint over the design. Two layers of nail varnish will do nicely. Let dry.
    When bone dry, take a small bowl of water and a sponge and gently wipe the surface of the piece, thereby removing some of the PMC3 Clay, until the painted design is raised. Put aside and let dry.

For the bottom half of the locket:

  • Step 1. Repeat Step 1 and 2 as for the top half of the locket.
  • Step 2. Using the 1mm rolling strips, roll out the PMC3 Clay and impress a design on both sides of the piece.
  • Step 3. Cut the clay out with the same cutter used for the top half. Put aside to dry.
  • Step 4. Using a 20mm round cutter, cut out a circle of PMC3 Clay. Then, using a 7.5mm cutter, cut a hole out of the 20mm circle. You will have a donut shape; this will become the frame for the photo. Put aside to dry. Next, we make a spacer that will sit at the top of the frame, this will prevent the locket from tipping when the two pieces are joined. This is just a small piece of clay that is placed at the top of the locket half, where the hole will be drilled for hanging.
  • Step 5. Using a small amount of PMC3 Slip, attach the frame and spacer to the locket half. Remember to wet all around the frame and spacer with a little bit of water. This will help to give it a secure join. Put aside to dry.
  • Step 6. When bone dry, sand the piece to remove any rough spots.

To Complete the locket:

  • Before firing, align the 2 halves together and drill through the top half all the way through the bottom half. This way the pieces will be joined evenly when hanging.
  • Step 1. Fire both pieces. Because the one piece of the locket has nail polish on it, I recommend firing the pieces in a kiln at 1600deg F. for 75 minutes.
    (If you are using a natural resist such as bees wax you can fire the piece by torch).
  • Step2. After firing, brush both pieces with the steel brush (front and back) to lay the fired silver molecules flat so the light can reflect off of the surface. Then take your steel burnisher and give the pieces a high shine. You can then toss the pieces into a tumbler with steel shot and burnishing compound to give them a really high shine.
  • Step 3. If desired, oxidize the pieces with Liver of Sulfur to give an antique look to the locket.
    Place 2 drops of Liver of Sulfur in a cup of boiled water and dip the pieces till the desired colour. Using a silver polishing cloth, polish off the oxidation on the raised surfaces leaving the colour in the recessed areas.
  • Step 4. Choose a picture of your liking and cut to the same size as the inner frame. Attach with a little white glue and cover with resin to protect.
  • Step 5. Join the two pieces together at the top. Options are jump rings, wire bails or a simple cotton cord.